I had hoped to post that the team went for the summit and made it yesterday, but we have not heard anything. As soon as we get acall from the crew, we'll let you know!
(roll suspenseful drumroll background music...)
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Message to Andy
Kathy had trouble commenting, so I'm helping out:
"Hey Andy,
Sending you loads of love. Well done on what you have achieved so far and good luck for second summit attempt. Love you heaps and thinking of you lots.
Love Nooks"
"Hey Andy,
Sending you loads of love. Well done on what you have achieved so far and good luck for second summit attempt. Love you heaps and thinking of you lots.
Love Nooks"
Monday, June 29, 2009
Close, but no cigar yesterday!
The team made a push for the summit yesterday (Sunday, June 28), but turned back from 19,200' (5850 m) when Brandon became affected by what certainly sounds like Acute Mountain Sickness or AMS.
AMS is a fairly broad term for symptoms which are created by the body's inability to acclimatize to a given altitude. There is an obvious link between lower oxygen levels at altitude and AMS, but the exact cause is still unknown. To read more about AMS and altitude, please visit Dr. Peter Hackett's excellent website for the Institute for High Altitude Medicine, located in Telluride Colorado. You can view his AMS page HERE.
In any case, the crew made the only decision o be made and assisted Brandon in descending back to High Camp. He is doing fine, and everyone did their best to rest in preparation for another attempt today.
AMS is a fairly broad term for symptoms which are created by the body's inability to acclimatize to a given altitude. There is an obvious link between lower oxygen levels at altitude and AMS, but the exact cause is still unknown. To read more about AMS and altitude, please visit Dr. Peter Hackett's excellent website for the Institute for High Altitude Medicine, located in Telluride Colorado. You can view his AMS page HERE.
In any case, the crew made the only decision o be made and assisted Brandon in descending back to High Camp. He is doing fine, and everyone did their best to rest in preparation for another attempt today.
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Windy Day at High Camp
Peter just called and the crew sat tight today, while they watched the good weather forecast be proven wrong by Denali. I guess Denali doesn't read the weather reports, because it was blowing 40 mph and very cold today, with the team awaking to -15 F (-22 C) temperatures.
Everyone is doing well, however Werner descended from below the fixed lines when the team moved up yesterday. Denali is one of the most challenging things that most climbers will ever do in their lives and making it to 16,400' is quite an accomplishment. Those who get to go higher are fortunate.
The team will push for the summit tomorrow, if Denali permits an attempt. In any case, they are in a great position for a summit bid at some point in the future, and have plenty of time to sit our weather, if Denali proves uncooperative.
Everyone is doing well, however Werner descended from below the fixed lines when the team moved up yesterday. Denali is one of the most challenging things that most climbers will ever do in their lives and making it to 16,400' is quite an accomplishment. Those who get to go higher are fortunate.
The team will push for the summit tomorrow, if Denali permits an attempt. In any case, they are in a great position for a summit bid at some point in the future, and have plenty of time to sit our weather, if Denali proves uncooperative.
Up the fixed lines to 16,400'
The crew made a carry of equipment and supplies up the steepest section of the route to 16,400 feet (5000 m) yesterday (Friday). The weather was pretty good, with high winds ripping above them. They are probably going to make a push up to High Camp today.
The route up from Camp 3 to their cache site ascends moderately steep snow to a 40 degree ice slope. 600 feet (270 m) of rope is hung down this stretch. The climbers attach an ascender to the rope to protect themselves in the event of slipping. This bit tends to be fairly slow going, but you're gaining elevation rather quickly, and really feel like you're "climbing!"
At the top of the fixed lines, the team took a hard right and climbed up through some rocks, and up another moderately steep bit of snow (with big exposure) as they climbed the ridgeline which leads up to High Camp at 17,200' (5242 m). They probably dug a hole in the snow at a spot that we traditionally use to place our caches, buried their kit to protect it from the ubiquitous raves, and descended the fixed lines back to Camp 3 for somegrilled cheese sandwiches or papperoni pizza.
Good work everyone!
Today's weather looks pretty favorable for them to make a puch up to High Camp, but it is snowing at Camp 3, so we'll see how the day progresses.
The route up from Camp 3 to their cache site ascends moderately steep snow to a 40 degree ice slope. 600 feet (270 m) of rope is hung down this stretch. The climbers attach an ascender to the rope to protect themselves in the event of slipping. This bit tends to be fairly slow going, but you're gaining elevation rather quickly, and really feel like you're "climbing!"
At the top of the fixed lines, the team took a hard right and climbed up through some rocks, and up another moderately steep bit of snow (with big exposure) as they climbed the ridgeline which leads up to High Camp at 17,200' (5242 m). They probably dug a hole in the snow at a spot that we traditionally use to place our caches, buried their kit to protect it from the ubiquitous raves, and descended the fixed lines back to Camp 3 for somegrilled cheese sandwiches or papperoni pizza.
Good work everyone!
Today's weather looks pretty favorable for them to make a puch up to High Camp, but it is snowing at Camp 3, so we'll see how the day progresses.
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Doing the Camp 3 "Hang."
The crew is still hanging out at Camp 3. The weather has improved tremenously today, however the recent snows have created some degree of avalanche hazard, so they will probably wait for the new snow to settle or slide before heading up hill.
We received some reports of avalanches in the vivinity of the fixed lines, so that area might become cleared out enough for the team to head up, but I would bet that they will wait until tomorrow to head up to cache food and supplies on the ridge below High Camp.
We received some reports of avalanches in the vivinity of the fixed lines, so that area might become cleared out enough for the team to head up, but I would bet that they will wait until tomorrow to head up to cache food and supplies on the ridge below High Camp.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
The storm continues on Denali
They watched the snow again today. They described the weather as living inside of a ping pong ball, white all around. The low pressure is expected to hang around for another day, and then weaken. They've got plenty of time, food, and patience left.
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