Pics from Talkeetna!

The team, "fresh" off the DeHavilland Beaver.
(Click on the image for a larger version)

Breathing the thick, rich air while waiting to unload the plane.

No rest for the weary. Unloading the plane in front of the Talkeetna Air Taxi office.

Brandon, a bit thinner perhaps, but psyched for the reception at the airstrip.

Andy and Tim chilling out and thinking about big food and showers...

Denis exhibiting one of the more common souvenirs from Denali, a dry cough. Upper respiratory infections are all too common on Denali, for some reason, and it is not a good place to heal.

Another common souvenir- blistered toes. It is all too easy to slip into the "heading back to the barn" mind set and just keep beating feet back to the airstrip on the descent. We've all ignored hot spots on our toes as we know that we are just..a...few...hours...from the airstrip, and all will be well once we get...these...darn...boots...off!

Brandon, looking a bit pink, but not terribly sunburned. It is almost impossible to put too much sunscreen on while you are on the glacier. We try to have everyone apply a fresh layer every hour, but even that does not keep the sun's rays at bay.

Andy, perhaps wondcring what his girlfriend will say...

If you read this, Andy- WE WANT TO KNOW AS WELL!!!

Some kind of homecoming! It's great to see you, baby, but could you please take a shower?!?!
Brandon and his sweetie, Julie

Peter, illustrating the art of applying deodorant, an art not much practiced by the team over the past couple of weeks...

Tim, loading up his truck for the long drive back to New York. Tim took a long road-trip to get to Alaska, and actually stopped by to visit in Ophir. Everyone should take a road-trip to Alaska at least once in his or her life.

Tim's truck and a shameless plug for Timber Hill Enterprises. If I ever need a sweet house built, I'm going to call Tim.

Click HERE to check out his website.

Back in Talkeetna!

The team made the long push down glacier from Camp 2 today, and has all flown out to the little hamlet of Talkeetna. The trip from Camp 2 is just over nine miles and drops roughly 4,500 feet before they all had to hike up the infamous Heartbreak Hill to access the airstrip on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna. This little hill of torture seems to go on forever, as it rises about 600' above the main body of the Kahiltna Glacier.

They looked after a fellow climber for the last 4 miles or so, which is exactly in the spirit of the universal code of mountaineering ethics.

Tonight they plan on staying in Talkeetna and eating way too much food. Showers will undoubtedly be a priority as well.

Great job everyone!

I'll try to get the guides to post some insights and will encourage everyone to post photos. Until then be safe, do good work and make someone smile.

On their way to Base Camp!

Another Mountain Trip guide called about two hours ago and reported that the team was at Camp 2, at 11,200' and were packing up to head back to Base Camp.

Conditions on the lower glacier are perfect this morning, so I suspect the crew will make good time back to Camp 1. they are going to pick up one climber who is ill from another team at Camp 1, which might slow them a bit on their way back to Base Camp, but they should still arrive in time to fly out for breakfast at the Talkeetna Roadhouse.

The big question is, who among the team will be "manly" enough to challenge their gastronomic abilities against a "Talkeetna Full Standard" breakfast? It is a plate full of food that is almost as challenging as climbing high on Denali!

A view from the top of North America

Here is a short video I shot from the summit on a clear evening in 2007, much like the one the team had the other night.

Successful Summit!!!

Sorry for the delay. Our normal lines of communication have been a bit disrupted, but I just heard that the three climbers remaining and both guides made the summit!

Tim, Andy, Denis, Peter and Michael all reached the summit late in the evening on Monday. The day was clear and their views as they looked out from the top of North America were stunning. This was their second time going high in two days, so they all needed to dig deep to find the energy and resolve to keep pushing, but they found it, and did great!

Congratulations to all the climbers!

They descended part of the way back down their route yesterday, and will undoubtedly push all the way back to base camp today.

No word yet from High Camp

I had hoped to post that the team went for the summit and made it yesterday, but we have not heard anything. As soon as we get acall from the crew, we'll let you know!

(roll suspenseful drumroll background music...)

Message to Andy

Kathy had trouble commenting, so I'm helping out:

"Hey Andy,

Sending you loads of love. Well done on what you have achieved so far and good luck for second summit attempt. Love you heaps and thinking of you lots.

Love Nooks"

Close, but no cigar yesterday!

The team made a push for the summit yesterday (Sunday, June 28), but turned back from 19,200' (5850 m) when Brandon became affected by what certainly sounds like Acute Mountain Sickness or AMS.

AMS is a fairly broad term for symptoms which are created by the body's inability to acclimatize to a given altitude. There is an obvious link between lower oxygen levels at altitude and AMS, but the exact cause is still unknown. To read more about AMS and altitude, please visit Dr. Peter Hackett's excellent website for the Institute for High Altitude Medicine, located in Telluride Colorado. You can view his AMS page HERE.

In any case, the crew made the only decision o be made and assisted Brandon in descending back to High Camp. He is doing fine, and everyone did their best to rest in preparation for another attempt today.

Windy Day at High Camp

Peter just called and the crew sat tight today, while they watched the good weather forecast be proven wrong by Denali. I guess Denali doesn't read the weather reports, because it was blowing 40 mph and very cold today, with the team awaking to -15 F (-22 C) temperatures.

Everyone is doing well, however Werner descended from below the fixed lines when the team moved up yesterday. Denali is one of the most challenging things that most climbers will ever do in their lives and making it to 16,400' is quite an accomplishment. Those who get to go higher are fortunate.

The team will push for the summit tomorrow, if Denali permits an attempt. In any case, they are in a great position for a summit bid at some point in the future, and have plenty of time to sit our weather, if Denali proves uncooperative.

Up the fixed lines to 16,400'

The crew made a carry of equipment and supplies up the steepest section of the route to 16,400 feet (5000 m) yesterday (Friday). The weather was pretty good, with high winds ripping above them. They are probably going to make a push up to High Camp today.

The route up from Camp 3 to their cache site ascends moderately steep snow to a 40 degree ice slope. 600 feet (270 m) of rope is hung down this stretch. The climbers attach an ascender to the rope to protect themselves in the event of slipping. This bit tends to be fairly slow going, but you're gaining elevation rather quickly, and really feel like you're "climbing!"

At the top of the fixed lines, the team took a hard right and climbed up through some rocks, and up another moderately steep bit of snow (with big exposure) as they climbed the ridgeline which leads up to High Camp at 17,200' (5242 m). They probably dug a hole in the snow at a spot that we traditionally use to place our caches, buried their kit to protect it from the ubiquitous raves, and descended the fixed lines back to Camp 3 for somegrilled cheese sandwiches or papperoni pizza.

Good work everyone!

Today's weather looks pretty favorable for them to make a puch up to High Camp, but it is snowing at Camp 3, so we'll see how the day progresses.

Doing the Camp 3 "Hang."

The crew is still hanging out at Camp 3. The weather has improved tremenously today, however the recent snows have created some degree of avalanche hazard, so they will probably wait for the new snow to settle or slide before heading up hill.

We received some reports of avalanches in the vivinity of the fixed lines, so that area might become cleared out enough for the team to head up, but I would bet that they will wait until tomorrow to head up to cache food and supplies on the ridge below High Camp.

The storm continues on Denali

They watched the snow again today. They described the weather as living inside of a ping pong ball, white all around. The low pressure is expected to hang around for another day, and then weaken. They've got plenty of time, food, and patience left.

Another Snowy Day on Denali

You get the idea... same as yesterday, watching the weather and trying hard to wish it away. The only thing you can count on with the weather is that it will change.

A Snowy Day on Denali...

The team had a well deserved rest today, after moving up to 14,200 ft yesterday. They were definitely feeling the altitude last night, with some headaches and some people not feeling that great. That's pretty common for the first night at that altitude, and they are all feeling much better after a bit of rest and acclimatization. It was a stormy and snowy day on Denali today, so it wasn't a bad day for a rest

They are in good company at this camp right now, we have 2 other Mountain Trip groups there right now, as well as lots of other teams. They'll probably be obsessing over the weather forecasts, but we like to say that the forecast is for entertainment purposes only, and not a decision making tool. The forecast is posted on a board next to the Park Services tents, and climbers watch it constantly as if they could wish the weather away if they just try hard enough.

14,000 camp

They are moving right along, and after a day of rest and acclimating at 11,000 camp they moved up to Camp 3 at 14,200 ft today. They are still going strong. I talked to Peter breifly at about 7 pm after they arrived in camp, but hope to get another call tonight with details. I'll update if I hear anything, but it sounds like it's going great.

11,200 ft on Denali

The team moved on up to 11,200 ft today (standard camp 2). It was a snowy day on Denali today, but they did great again, and were settled in to camp by noon today. Tomorrow they'll take a well deserved rest/acclimitization day.

Finally a post...

Apologies for not having a post earlier. Technical difficulties here, but they are doing great on the mountain.

Yesterday (Tuesday) they moved up to camp 1 at 7,800 ft with all of their gear, food, fuel, etc. for a 20 day expedition. As you might imagine these are pretty big loads. Peter said they all did great and travelled the 6 miles from basecamp to Camp 1 in just about 5 1/2 hours.

Today they packed it all up again and move up the glacier a bit further, to camp at 9,800 ft. This is a camp in between the normal Camp 1 and Camp 2 at 11,200 ft. They decided they could carry it all in one push, so they'll move on up to Camp 2 tomorrow. It sounds like they've got a strong team and they are doing great.

So far they've been getting up very early (2 am) and travelling before the sun really warms up the snow making the trail soft and travel more difficult. As they move up the mountain the temps are a bit colder and they'll be able to sleep in to a more reasonable hour.

Here's a pic of one of our guides hauling loads on the lower Kahiltna glacier just to give you an idea of what the pack/sled combo looks like.

Beautiful Day in Talkeetna

The team went to Talkeetna this morning, and it is a perfect day. Check out the web cam from our friends at Talkeetna Air Taxi, click the link to the right.

They'll be flying in to base camp any minute now, the flight is spectacular, the adventure begins.

Here's a picture of the team just outside Talkeetna with Denali in the background.

Meeting in Anchorage

The team met today at the Earth B&B here in Anchorage, our climbers home away from home in Alaska. They talked about what to expect on the trip, checked out their gear and then went to lunch. They are all eager to get going tomorrow, and will meet at about 7:30am to drive to Talkeetna and fly into the Alaska Range. The flight in is jaw dropping, and the experience just keeps getting better.

Here's a picture of the June 14th Mountain Trip Denali Expedition, before...

From left to right; Peter Inglis (guide), Michael Burmeister (guide), Andy Van der Velde, Tim Hilgendorf, Denis Autier, Werner Haag, and Brandon Germer

We'll get an "after" shot on the blog following their climb, to see if anyone looks differently!

Welcome to the dispatch blog for Mountain Trip's June 14, 2009 Denali climb!

In the far north lies one of the most magnificent ranges of mountains in the world. The Alaska Range stretches 400 miles across southcentral Alaska. It is a wild place, covered in glaciers and punctuated by rugged peaks. The crown of the range is Denali, at 20,320 feet (6194 m), the highest peak in North America. Located so close to the Arctic circle, Denali can present some of the most challenging and rugged conditions of any mountain on earth.

Each year a relatively few climbers from around the world migrate to test themselves on the slopes of Denali. Mountain Trip has been assisting these climbers achieve their Denali dreams since 1976. We love what we do and are happy to help provide you a taste of what these climbers are experiencing by updating their progress in this blog. Following the expedition, we will post numerous photos from the expedition, so please keep checking in.

On June 14, 2009, a small team of climbers will arrive in Anchorage. They will be accompanied by three Mountain Trip guides:

Peter Inglis from Telluride, Colorado
Michael Burmeister from Anchorage, Alaska

Let's meet the climbers!

Brandon Germer from the US (ALASKA!)
Andy Van Der Velde from South Africa
Tim Hilgendorf from the US
Werner Haag from the US
Denis Autier from France

We encourage you to follow the team's progress. Please post comments for the climbers, but realize that we cannot always get those messages to your climber in a timely fashion, due to the challenges of communicating from the Alaska Range.

Keep in mind that no news is good news. We will do our best to post each day, but many things could conspire to prevent this from happening. Feel free to contact our office with any questions or concerns and enjoy the posts!