I had hoped to post that the team went for the summit and made it yesterday, but we have not heard anything. As soon as we get acall from the crew, we'll let you know!
(roll suspenseful drumroll background music...)
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Message to Andy
Kathy had trouble commenting, so I'm helping out:
"Hey Andy,
Sending you loads of love. Well done on what you have achieved so far and good luck for second summit attempt. Love you heaps and thinking of you lots.
Love Nooks"
"Hey Andy,
Sending you loads of love. Well done on what you have achieved so far and good luck for second summit attempt. Love you heaps and thinking of you lots.
Love Nooks"
Monday, June 29, 2009
Close, but no cigar yesterday!
The team made a push for the summit yesterday (Sunday, June 28), but turned back from 19,200' (5850 m) when Brandon became affected by what certainly sounds like Acute Mountain Sickness or AMS.
AMS is a fairly broad term for symptoms which are created by the body's inability to acclimatize to a given altitude. There is an obvious link between lower oxygen levels at altitude and AMS, but the exact cause is still unknown. To read more about AMS and altitude, please visit Dr. Peter Hackett's excellent website for the Institute for High Altitude Medicine, located in Telluride Colorado. You can view his AMS page HERE.
In any case, the crew made the only decision o be made and assisted Brandon in descending back to High Camp. He is doing fine, and everyone did their best to rest in preparation for another attempt today.
AMS is a fairly broad term for symptoms which are created by the body's inability to acclimatize to a given altitude. There is an obvious link between lower oxygen levels at altitude and AMS, but the exact cause is still unknown. To read more about AMS and altitude, please visit Dr. Peter Hackett's excellent website for the Institute for High Altitude Medicine, located in Telluride Colorado. You can view his AMS page HERE.
In any case, the crew made the only decision o be made and assisted Brandon in descending back to High Camp. He is doing fine, and everyone did their best to rest in preparation for another attempt today.
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Windy Day at High Camp
Peter just called and the crew sat tight today, while they watched the good weather forecast be proven wrong by Denali. I guess Denali doesn't read the weather reports, because it was blowing 40 mph and very cold today, with the team awaking to -15 F (-22 C) temperatures.
Everyone is doing well, however Werner descended from below the fixed lines when the team moved up yesterday. Denali is one of the most challenging things that most climbers will ever do in their lives and making it to 16,400' is quite an accomplishment. Those who get to go higher are fortunate.
The team will push for the summit tomorrow, if Denali permits an attempt. In any case, they are in a great position for a summit bid at some point in the future, and have plenty of time to sit our weather, if Denali proves uncooperative.
Everyone is doing well, however Werner descended from below the fixed lines when the team moved up yesterday. Denali is one of the most challenging things that most climbers will ever do in their lives and making it to 16,400' is quite an accomplishment. Those who get to go higher are fortunate.
The team will push for the summit tomorrow, if Denali permits an attempt. In any case, they are in a great position for a summit bid at some point in the future, and have plenty of time to sit our weather, if Denali proves uncooperative.
Up the fixed lines to 16,400'
The crew made a carry of equipment and supplies up the steepest section of the route to 16,400 feet (5000 m) yesterday (Friday). The weather was pretty good, with high winds ripping above them. They are probably going to make a push up to High Camp today.
The route up from Camp 3 to their cache site ascends moderately steep snow to a 40 degree ice slope. 600 feet (270 m) of rope is hung down this stretch. The climbers attach an ascender to the rope to protect themselves in the event of slipping. This bit tends to be fairly slow going, but you're gaining elevation rather quickly, and really feel like you're "climbing!"
At the top of the fixed lines, the team took a hard right and climbed up through some rocks, and up another moderately steep bit of snow (with big exposure) as they climbed the ridgeline which leads up to High Camp at 17,200' (5242 m). They probably dug a hole in the snow at a spot that we traditionally use to place our caches, buried their kit to protect it from the ubiquitous raves, and descended the fixed lines back to Camp 3 for somegrilled cheese sandwiches or papperoni pizza.
Good work everyone!
Today's weather looks pretty favorable for them to make a puch up to High Camp, but it is snowing at Camp 3, so we'll see how the day progresses.
The route up from Camp 3 to their cache site ascends moderately steep snow to a 40 degree ice slope. 600 feet (270 m) of rope is hung down this stretch. The climbers attach an ascender to the rope to protect themselves in the event of slipping. This bit tends to be fairly slow going, but you're gaining elevation rather quickly, and really feel like you're "climbing!"
At the top of the fixed lines, the team took a hard right and climbed up through some rocks, and up another moderately steep bit of snow (with big exposure) as they climbed the ridgeline which leads up to High Camp at 17,200' (5242 m). They probably dug a hole in the snow at a spot that we traditionally use to place our caches, buried their kit to protect it from the ubiquitous raves, and descended the fixed lines back to Camp 3 for somegrilled cheese sandwiches or papperoni pizza.
Good work everyone!
Today's weather looks pretty favorable for them to make a puch up to High Camp, but it is snowing at Camp 3, so we'll see how the day progresses.
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Doing the Camp 3 "Hang."
The crew is still hanging out at Camp 3. The weather has improved tremenously today, however the recent snows have created some degree of avalanche hazard, so they will probably wait for the new snow to settle or slide before heading up hill.
We received some reports of avalanches in the vivinity of the fixed lines, so that area might become cleared out enough for the team to head up, but I would bet that they will wait until tomorrow to head up to cache food and supplies on the ridge below High Camp.
We received some reports of avalanches in the vivinity of the fixed lines, so that area might become cleared out enough for the team to head up, but I would bet that they will wait until tomorrow to head up to cache food and supplies on the ridge below High Camp.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
The storm continues on Denali
They watched the snow again today. They described the weather as living inside of a ping pong ball, white all around. The low pressure is expected to hang around for another day, and then weaken. They've got plenty of time, food, and patience left.
Monday, June 22, 2009
Another Snowy Day on Denali
You get the idea... same as yesterday, watching the weather and trying hard to wish it away. The only thing you can count on with the weather is that it will change.
Sunday, June 21, 2009
A Snowy Day on Denali...
The team had a well deserved rest today, after moving up to 14,200 ft yesterday. They were definitely feeling the altitude last night, with some headaches and some people not feeling that great. That's pretty common for the first night at that altitude, and they are all feeling much better after a bit of rest and acclimatization. It was a stormy and snowy day on Denali today, so it wasn't a bad day for a rest
They are in good company at this camp right now, we have 2 other Mountain Trip groups there right now, as well as lots of other teams. They'll probably be obsessing over the weather forecasts, but we like to say that the forecast is for entertainment purposes only, and not a decision making tool. The forecast is posted on a board next to the Park Services tents, and climbers watch it constantly as if they could wish the weather away if they just try hard enough.
They are in good company at this camp right now, we have 2 other Mountain Trip groups there right now, as well as lots of other teams. They'll probably be obsessing over the weather forecasts, but we like to say that the forecast is for entertainment purposes only, and not a decision making tool. The forecast is posted on a board next to the Park Services tents, and climbers watch it constantly as if they could wish the weather away if they just try hard enough.
Saturday, June 20, 2009
14,000 camp
They are moving right along, and after a day of rest and acclimating at 11,000 camp they moved up to Camp 3 at 14,200 ft today. They are still going strong. I talked to Peter breifly at about 7 pm after they arrived in camp, but hope to get another call tonight with details. I'll update if I hear anything, but it sounds like it's going great.
Thursday, June 18, 2009
11,200 ft on Denali
The team moved on up to 11,200 ft today (standard camp 2). It was a snowy day on Denali today, but they did great again, and were settled in to camp by noon today. Tomorrow they'll take a well deserved rest/acclimitization day.
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Finally a post...
Apologies for not having a post earlier. Technical difficulties here, but they are doing great on the mountain.
Yesterday (Tuesday) they moved up to camp 1 at 7,800 ft with all of their gear, food, fuel, etc. for a 20 day expedition. As you might imagine these are pretty big loads. Peter said they all did great and travelled the 6 miles from basecamp to Camp 1 in just about 5 1/2 hours.
Today they packed it all up again and move up the glacier a bit further, to camp at 9,800 ft. This is a camp in between the normal Camp 1 and Camp 2 at 11,200 ft. They decided they could carry it all in one push, so they'll move on up to Camp 2 tomorrow. It sounds like they've got a strong team and they are doing great.
So far they've been getting up very early (2 am) and travelling before the sun really warms up the snow making the trail soft and travel more difficult. As they move up the mountain the temps are a bit colder and they'll be able to sleep in to a more reasonable hour.
Here's a pic of one of our guides hauling loads on the lower Kahiltna glacier just to give you an idea of what the pack/sled combo looks like.
Yesterday (Tuesday) they moved up to camp 1 at 7,800 ft with all of their gear, food, fuel, etc. for a 20 day expedition. As you might imagine these are pretty big loads. Peter said they all did great and travelled the 6 miles from basecamp to Camp 1 in just about 5 1/2 hours.
Today they packed it all up again and move up the glacier a bit further, to camp at 9,800 ft. This is a camp in between the normal Camp 1 and Camp 2 at 11,200 ft. They decided they could carry it all in one push, so they'll move on up to Camp 2 tomorrow. It sounds like they've got a strong team and they are doing great.
So far they've been getting up very early (2 am) and travelling before the sun really warms up the snow making the trail soft and travel more difficult. As they move up the mountain the temps are a bit colder and they'll be able to sleep in to a more reasonable hour.
Here's a pic of one of our guides hauling loads on the lower Kahiltna glacier just to give you an idea of what the pack/sled combo looks like.
Monday, June 15, 2009
Beautiful Day in Talkeetna
The team went to Talkeetna this morning, and it is a perfect day. Check out the web cam from our friends at Talkeetna Air Taxi, click the link to the right.
They'll be flying in to base camp any minute now, the flight is spectacular, the adventure begins.
Here's a picture of the team just outside Talkeetna with Denali in the background.
They'll be flying in to base camp any minute now, the flight is spectacular, the adventure begins.
Here's a picture of the team just outside Talkeetna with Denali in the background.
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Meeting in Anchorage
The team met today at the Earth B&B here in Anchorage, our climbers home away from home in Alaska. They talked about what to expect on the trip, checked out their gear and then went to lunch. They are all eager to get going tomorrow, and will meet at about 7:30am to drive to Talkeetna and fly into the Alaska Range. The flight in is jaw dropping, and the experience just keeps getting better.
From left to right; Peter Inglis (guide), Michael Burmeister (guide), Andy Van der Velde, Tim Hilgendorf, Denis Autier, Werner Haag, and Brandon Germer
We'll get an "after" shot on the blog following their climb, to see if anyone looks differently!
Here's a picture of the June 14th Mountain Trip Denali Expedition, before...
From left to right; Peter Inglis (guide), Michael Burmeister (guide), Andy Van der Velde, Tim Hilgendorf, Denis Autier, Werner Haag, and Brandon GermerWe'll get an "after" shot on the blog following their climb, to see if anyone looks differently!
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